February denotes the first signs of spring in the Southwest. It also denotes that special time of year when many dedicated anglers dust off their fly fishing gear and make the annual pilgrimage across the desert to New Mexico's San Juan River. For the last nineteen years, I've traveled the 600 mile trek from southern Utah across the vast Navajo Nation for an annual reunion with the enchanted river, the quality waters and the trout that call it home. The river has been the subject of many fishing magazines and television shows. It has been visited by fly fishing's elite along with hundreds of thousands of other anglers and yet it continues to deliver that excitement and rush we seek from this sport.
My first trip to the San Juan actually started out to be a back packing trip into the Grand Canyon to challenge the large rainbow trout that inhabited the Colorado River, below Lee's Ferry in northern Arizona. However, poor weather and high flows in the Paria watershed muddied the Colorado and not wanting to waste a four day pass from home, we ventured farther east to the San Juan River. That year we camped in a tent near the quality waters and explored the local fly shops, seeking the knowledge we would need as true rookies to this river. Old "Abe" himself picked a shami leach from the fly selection at Abe's Fly Shop in Navajo Dam and after describing the rigging required, personally guaranteed me success at the Texas Hole. I was there at daylight the next morning and my very first cast produced a hearty, 24 inch brown and immediately I knew this was a very special place.
Part of the charm is the natural beauty of the setting, nestled near the base of the majestic San Juan Mountains, in a tail water fishery began after the construction of the Navajo Dam in the 1960's and it is commonly recognized as one of the top ten tail water fisheries in the continental United States. There is rarely a shortage of anglers on the river, but the fish don't seem to mind the crowds, after all, the water is pretty crowded with fish as well. Recent studies by the New Mexico Department of Game and Fish suggest populations of up to 15.000 fish per mile. Most fish are hybrid rainbow trout, but the river has a solid brown trout population as well. The average size is about 16-18 inches, but much larger fish are landed regularly. Active fish can be seen constantly, even when the water is stained and cloudy.
Typical river flows vary from 400-500 cfs during the spring, though higher flows can be encountered when downstream irrigation use begins. The quality waters include a variety of fishing opportunities including wading shallow water flats and braided channels, casting to deeper main channel runs and holes golden stone canyon, typical to the Colorado Plateau. The San Juan River is located 40 miles northeast of Farmington, New Mexico near the Colorado border. The classic and drift boat fishing below the famous Texas Hole. A highly skilled and very courteous guide corps has developed and is also available. Several of my favorite fly shops, a rarity in the Southwest, are conveniently located near the quality waters in Navajo Dam, New Mexico like Float-N-Fish and Duranglers, and offer outfitting, guide services and boat rentals as well. Lodging and restaurants are available year round at Navajo Dam as well as in Farmington (30 mi), Aztec, New Mexico (20 mi) and Durango, Colorado (40 mi).
Most anglers use nine or 10 foot, four to six weight fly rods matched with weight forward floating fly lines, a 9 foot leader and 5X or 6X fluorocarbon tippet. Fly selection varies based on the season and the weather as it does in most rivers, but the most noticeable traits of the common patterns is the size. For those like me who are visually challenged, these flies are primarily extremely small. In the slower waters try fishing size 22 or 24 midge patterns. Fish will eat midges of all colors, but darker patterns seem to be the best. When the sun is high try BWO's, in gray, olive or chocolate shades, size 22. Stripping streamers and weighted bunny leaches can work well in the deeper runs and holes, size 4 and 6 in white brown, gray and black.
My fly box also includes a selection of small size 14 to 18 egg patterns in flesh, orange and peach; Rs2's, Wd-40's and Red Hots again size 22 and 24; mayfly emergers; red annelids; and of course a selection of San Juan Worms in all colors and sizes. When nymphing these small flies, remember the weight is extremely important to be successful. Depending on the river depth and flow velocity, weight should be changed as necessary to keep the flies in the fish zone. Proper presentation of the fly is critical to angler success. If you know the fish are there and you are not being successful, try adjusting the weight the same way you change the flies. Very minor changes can produce immediate success.
The strike indicator is your friend. Learn to understand its movements and follow it with soft hook sets for the small flies. You do not need to be a long caster here. Accurate casts from 15 to 35 feet are all that's required for success. On certain days you will also see fish on the surface. Try a small olive or brown Parachute Adams, size 22. You may need to use a larger indicator fly to help you see the small dry fly. Fish the foam line below the holes during mid-day for good results.
Many of the local guides and outfitters maintain websites with updated information on current fishing conditions and fly patterns. Search the web for "San Juan River Fishing' and you will be barraged with a bounteous selection of fishing data about this renowned fishery. The sheer numbers of anglers on good days can be intimidating if you are not used to it. You'll learn the techniques required for success faster and catch more fish with an experienced guide. Besides, they usually bring plenty of food, drinks and flies. Most importantly, their stories are always great entertainment.
Be prepared for nearly any kind of weather while fishing the San Juan in the winter and spring. It can be a snowy 40 degrees with cold winds one day and a sunny 75 degrees and calm the next. Just be prepared for any kind of weather and you won't need to worry. The water is cold, so waders are required unless you are spending the day floating the river in a drift boat. Layer your clothing and always keep a dry coat or rain jacket handy. Also don't forget gloves, a hat, polarized eyewear and sunscreen.
The San Juan was a fantastic place to teach my son, Dustin about fly fishing. He made his first pilgrimage to the river at seven years old in a pair of makeshift waders that included tennis shoes, Mickey Mouse suspenders and a life jacket under his coat. We literally dragged him up, down and across the shallow flats above Texas Hole and taught him what we knew about nymphing and reading a strike indicator for any sign of movement. He did not catch a fish that first trip, but the river left an impression on him and he has accompanied me on many trips since. On our last trip there he spanked his old man in front of all my fishing buddies. That day he gave me the fishing lesson and for me as a father, there are few things in this life that have given me as much pleasure.
If you want a break from the fishing, there are also many unique opportunities near the river to explore the Southwest at local trading posts and shops in the area. On our trips we usually shop for Native American art and decorations. My wife enjoys the hand-made Navajo rugs, jewelry and pottery. She also enjoys a strung red chili riesta to hang in her kitchen and use in her salsa at home. The local mountains, canyons, food, history and traditions of the region make it a great place for family vacations and couples getaways as well. There are numerous local bed and breakfast inns and private home rentals near the river, which make great base for fishing and exploring the area. Try the Octagon Inn in Navajo Dam for a great experience.
Fishing the San Juan is truly an enchanting experience and a wonderful opportunity to become more familiar with the Southwest and the treasures that can be discovered there. So get there and catch some fish.